Major
cities always have major attractions but, as the saying goes, familiarity breeds
contempt. So often upon arriving
somewhere “new” there is an unshakable sense of déjà vu. The Eiffel Tower? We all know
what that looks like. New York yellow cabs? Yep, seen those a million times. Big Ben? Yawn! This means when
you do come across a major city with no preconceptions, those big attractions seem even bigger, like finding
a rare gem, tucked away somewhere secret. Except Seoul is no hidden gem; it’s an enormous, shining treasure
trove.
The centre of downtown Seoul is dominated by Cheonggyecheon, an eight-kilometre-long
public recreation space. Originally, this creek flowed through the city towards the Han River and eventually
out into the Yellow Sea, but in the mid-20th century, after decades of deterioration, the entire river was
built over. In 2003, a $280-million project began to uncover the river and create a space that has proved to
be both tranquil and thriving. The resulting shallow canal-like
area is one of the most brilliant pieces of urban architecture in any capital city. The paths along the side
of the canal are used for everything from peaceful
early-morning runs to lunchtime rendezvous to late-night fireworks and gigs. With its
delicate stepping-stone bridges, perfectly manipulated
rapids, fountains and waterfall, the canal can be both the perfect place to sit and relax, and the best place
to party.
The markets of Seoul provide an easy way to spend a few meandering days (but be prepared
for a range of aromas that may stop you in your tracks from time to time). There are numerous alleyways
within alleyways that grow darker with each turn and more enticing with each light at the end of every
tunnel. Everything is available in these streets and sometimes entire areas are dedicated to particular
produce or entire shops to one specific item. Just how many types of clocks can be in one shop? Seoul has the
answer… (it’s an awful lot). Whereas in Europe industrial items are usually only found in business parks
outside of the city centres, here in Seoul you can wander through an amazing scope of products, from
prosthetic arms to neon signs to terrifying-looking fish, within one or two
streets.
Located near the downtown area, Namdaemun Market is one of the most famous and easily
accessible markets. A market was first established here in the 15th century and even today the narrow lanes
are often so tightly packed that the only method of moving goods is by hand-drawn cart. The market covers an
astonishing 10 acres and has over 1,000 shops from wholesale outlets to street vendors, selling nearly
everything and anything you could hope to find.
There are many great foods to be sampled in the capital — and a few that will certainly
take your breath away. One speciality turns the traditional soup-as-starter firmly on its head. A very large
“communal” bowl of boiling soup sits in the centre of the table and is used to cook thin beef slices through
a number of courses. Then, for the final course, the soup is given a big stir (unearthing some things at the
bottom you wouldn’t have guessed at) and served, rich with the juices of all that dipped beef. It’s a genius
idea and a surprising twist on the European norm.
Perhaps more surprising is the Koreans’ love of coffee. There is a well-known American
coffee shop on nearly every corner and then quite literally two or three Korean coffee shops in between. The
supermarkets and kiosks offer an array of coffee-related snacks (such as coffee beans simply coated in
chocolate) and there’s even coffee chewing gum, which, one presumes, can only be to get that annoying taste
of toothpaste out of your mouth first thing in the morning.
The N Seoul Tower was built in 1969 and finally
opened to the public in 1980. The tower itself stands at 236.7 metres but as it sits upon the peak of Mount
Namsan, the actual height from sea level is an astonishing 479.7 metres. Inevitably, this gives some pretty
awe-inspiring views over the entire city and no trip to Seoul is complete without making the pilgrimage to
the top. The rail around the tower is charmingly decorated with hundreds of locks placed there by couples
“locking” their futures together. There is obviously a lot of love in Seoul, since warnings have now been
made notto add
more locks for fear of the railings collapsing.
Although many people take the Namsan cable car up the mountain, it is possible to walk
all the way to the tower through the beautifully maintained park. The park also features the smoke signal
station Mongmyeoksan Bongsudae, which, as part of the ancient communications network across the mountain
peaks, was used to warn of approaching attacks. The station still features “guards” in traditional dress who
carry out their drills for the benefit of the amassed tourists.
When the bustle of the markets and the dizzying
heights of the tower get too much, it is time to seek out one of Seoul’s numerous beautiful palaces. Unlike
in Europe, where palaces tend to be a single structure, here in South Korea they are more like entire cities
of gatehouses, courtyards and residences.
Perhaps the most grand is Gyeongbokgung
Palace, which was originally constructed in the
late 14th century and served as the main palace of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). It is a gigantic maze of
stunning buildings and also features the National Folk Museum with its iconic skyscraping pagoda. A little
smaller than the grand Gyeongbokgung Palace, Deoksugung Palace sits slap-bang on the edge of the busiest
intersection in the downtown area. It is renowned for its elegant stone-wall road and features public
ceremonies such as the changing of the guard and the Bosingak bell ringing.
Not to be forgotten is Changdeok Palace, a UNESCO
World Heritage Site where many of the original buildings remain. Also known for having integrated the design
of the palace into the natural setting of the land, the Changdeok Palace houses a secret garden that was once
a favourite escape for past kings and queens.
Although Tokyo and Hong Kong are the more renowned
Eastern cities for Western tourists, Seoul really is a treat, bursting full of little moments of intrigue.
It’s a city where every street offers something new, from historic palaces to maze-like markets. Now growing
in recognition alongside its Japanese and Chinese counterparts, Seoul should be high on anyone’s list of
places to see.
The perfect spot to base yourself is the Fraser
Place Central Hotel. This huge hotel certainly seems to have it all: A great location, enormous and spacious
rooms, a good restaurant, gym, swimming pool, business suites, pool tables, two roof terraces, babysitting
services… the list goes on and on. It’s a fitting starting point for your
multifaceted,
multi-sensory Seoul excursion. •
Photos by Adam Monaghan
