The Rebirth of Jordan

Arriving at dawn, I am greeted by the dark and deserted streets of Amman. The scenic route in a taxi ride from the airport to the hotel provides a riveting juxtaposition of how the country’s capital city truly transforms from night to day. In the daylight, I am captivated by its structure, with the blazing sun igniting the city’s vivacity and bringing its historical landmarks and intricate architecture to life. 

Jordan has always fascinated me. Its remarkable culture sparked my curiosity, and the Jordanian people, whose gracious hospitality I had heard so much about, intrigued me. I wanted to explore what the country has to offer. It would turn out to be so much more than its popular tourist attractions, Petra and the Dead Sea. 

With nearly three million people residing in the general Amman area, I am surprised to see that the streets appear eerily vacant on a Saturday morning. Walking through the city, its tattered walkways and cobblestone paths stop me in my tracks as I navigate through the bare streets. I learn that in Jordan, and most Middle Eastern countries, Friday and Saturday are considered the weekend, with Sunday marking the beginning of the workweek. 

The quiet allowed me to comfortably explore the city and observe its contemporary elements among the city’s distressed accents. From afar, however, Amman’s skyline appears almost as a blur. The uniformity resembles a set of limestone stacked building blocks (Jordan is one of the world’s growing producers of limestone). On closer inspection, the buildings that exhibit several decades of wear and tear still stand strong, despite the crumbling downpour of stone and rock that lie beneath them, while historical sites have been partially restored to their original condition. 

It’s the diverse surroundings that give Amman a splash of colour… and a change of pace. This thought crosses my mind as I walk through the souks with a sense of enchantment. Friendly shopkeepers attempt to woo passersby, touting hand-stitched sequined dresses, intricately designed scarves, handmade trinkets and aromatic spices that fill the air with their pungency. I am graciously welcomed everywhere. 

Downtown, cars jam the narrow roads while making their presence known with boisterous honking as they weave through the city. As loud as the noise of the downtown city can be, it becomes insignificant when the call to prayer resounds, which I relish in five times a day. The angelic chant is captivating, radiating through the city as a poetic echo for — what it seems like — the world to hear.  

While I wandered the streets of Amman alone, I join a tour group to visit the country’s major attractions. It would offer both an educational experience and unprecedented access to some of the country’s greatest — and hidden — treasures. In my group of seven travellers, all newcomers to Jordan, the newfound territory enhanced the experience of exploring the country with a sense of communal wonderment. 

We visit Jerash in northern Jordan, an area known for its Roman artifacts, but one that also provides an ethereal escape from the city. The hot sun beats down as we make our way to the historical site, our progress slowed as our feet sink into the warm sand. Looking up, I’m taken aback by the ancient architecture. The tall Greco-Roman buildings, the remains of which have been partially restored, retain the detailed construction and architectural charm of the originals, preserving their striking former glory. In the Roman amphitheatre, Bedouin performers demonstrate the echo projection with voices and the habban, a type of bagpipe. It’s upbeat and harmonious. They encourage us to participate in a traditional dance with them, joining hands in a circle for a festive musical celebration, before our tour group heads to the hippodrome to watch the daily chariot race and knights’ battle.

The next day we visit Wadi Rum, also known as the Valley of the Moon, which was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site earlier this year. Located in southern Jordan, Wadi Rum borders Saudi Arabia and is known as the location where Lawrence of Arabia was filmed. We take an exhilarating ride across the sand dunes of the desert in four-by-four pickup trucks. But it is sitting in the back of the truck that provides me with the highlight of the trip, simply gazing at the otherworldly mountainous cliffs and rocks that surround us. We stay overnight at a camp hotel, which incorporates authentic elements of traditional Bedouin camps. We sit around a fire on vibrantly coloured, handmade cloths, a larger type of which covers our camp “rooms.” The shallow bed is draped in loosely fitted white sheets and sits on the sandy ground of the tent. In the darkness, the candles provide the only light for miles. 

In the morning, we continue our way southwest to Aqaba, Jordan’s coastal city and its only seaport. We enjoy a relaxing boat ride over the calm Red Sea. As we sail along the waters, the rich teal blue waves rapidly cascade in the cool breeze and glisten in the sunlight. Aqaba is one of the country’s most popular tourist destinations and it is known for its opulent shopping markets and lavish seaside facilities. At the beach, I unwind by watching the sun as it sets over the Red Sea.

In the morning, we make our way to the lowest point on Earth — the Dead Sea. Even after reading about it and getting visual tastes from afar throughout my trip, truly nothing could have prepared me for it. From a distance, the water appears as a hazy dove-grey, preserving the natural serenity of the view; up close it’s even more beautiful. 

I begin my excursion by partaking in the exfoliating mud from the sea, applying it to my arms and legs. Relaxing on shore, I feel the strong pull of the mud as it tightens, a sign that the mud is working to rejuvenate the skin. Waiting for the mud to dry allows me to take a stroll on the rocks and bask in the beauty of the sea and its surroundings.

Salt crystals sparkle like a lustrous array of white diamonds transforming the rather ordinary-looking rocks into natural artifacts. As I make my way into the water, it is an anomalous experience to fight the urge to swim. Due to the sea’s high salt concentration, the water exhibits natural buoyancy that makes people float rather than sink. Once I adapt to the water, floating in the sea — in light of the sun’s heavy rays and sweltering heat — proves to be quite a tranquil experience. 

As my journey to Jordan begins winding down, I reflect on the country that I am so fortunate to have visited. Regardless of the conflict that its surrounding regions have experienced, Jordan remains a touchstone for history, culture and luxury. It continues to reinvent its identity by pushing through presumptions, and inspire travellers with its numerous attractions. Learning all about the country’s multitude of historical and cultural landmarks allows visitors to the country to bask in all of Jordan’s effervescent glory, witnessing how it is filled with so much life and soul.• 


Photo Courtesy: Jordan Tourism Board